Yesterday evening I started the building of the interiors, this is inside the Post Office.
Today I have built, painted, glazed and attached the conservatory.
From when my Parents gave me my first train set for a Christmas present as a child, I have had an interest in model railways. I originally started in "OO" gauge, but have also built in "N" and "O" gauge. The last layout I built was my exhibition layout "Holmehurst" which was in "O" gauge, and I exhibited it around the country. Photos of it can be seen by following this link.
I inherited some "OO9" rolling stock from my late father, and ever since living on our working narrowboat Hadar I have been thinking about building a "OO9" layout.
For those who do not know, "OO9" is "OO" scale, which is 4mm to 1ft, but the track and rolling stock are narrow gauge, equivalent to 2ft gauge in real life. Modelling-wise this means that I can used standard "OO" scale buildings, people, scenery etc. of which there is a far greater range of ready built items and kits to choose from, but it has the advantage that the reduced size of the track and rolling stock means that curves can be tighter than for standard gauge, without losing a realistic look within a restricted layout size.
I had thought about building a layout in our garden alongside our mooring at the
Please feel free to leave comments, I am always interested in suggestions or questions.
This is what Hadarford Village should eventually look like. I thought it was about time to see if all the buildings I have purchased, and the Post Office and cottages I am in the process of building, will fit in the space I have set aside for the village, alongside the canal lock.
From left to right and rear to front, Hadarford House, The Boat Inn, empty hair salon, Post Office and cottages, large thatched cottage, small thatched cottage, lock side stores and lock keepers’ cottage, village hall and finally the vicarage.
This is pretty much how I had imagined it, and I am very pleased with the resultant layout of the buildings.
Today I have fitted 2 of the doors and all the windows to the front of the terrace. I am waiting for the paint on the other 2 doors to dry overnight.
I was not going to bother fitting lintels and window sills to the rear of the model as it will not be seen, but today I changed my mind and fitted and primered them. I also white primered the internal walls, which is how they will remain.
Painting the stonework walls is now finished. Sunday I finished painting the stonework with 2 shades of grey. I also painted the lintels and window sills.
Today was spent going over the paintwork touching up the edged of stones which I had not quite got right the over the weekend. Having completed the base colours I then dry-brushed with black paint to give the stonework surface depth. I also primered the windows, doors and some other details ready for gloss painting tomorrow.
This is one of the 2 chimneys at either ends of the terrace that I built yesterday. because I was able to cut them from the same sheet of walling, I was able to continue the mortar lines around the corners, and with a little work with a Stanley knife and some emery paper, the desired effect is not too bad. Fortunately the joint of unmatched stonework,which is unavoidable, is at the rear of both chimneys, so not noticeable.
Today I have cut and fixed the window sills and lintels to the window apertures. I have not added lintels to the tops of the door apertures as I will be adding the provided canopies over the doors so the lintels would not be visible anyway.
Close-up view of some of the window sills and lintels. I have decided not to add such detail to the rear of these buildings as they will not be seen. The wall joint visible in this photo where the 2 wall sheets have been joined will be hidden behind a guttering downpipe, but I won’t add that until after I have painted the stonework, which is the next step over the weekend.
These 2 photos show the edges of the apertures of 2 of the windows. This close-up detail is to illustrate how the window and door apertures have to have the smooth edges, after cutting out, cut-in around the stonework to match the mortar work.
I have made a start on assembling 2 building kits which I am going to join together to make a terrace of a Post Office and 2 cottages. In the photo below the bottom section of wall is as it comes in the kit. Each wall section has to be cut to size and marked out as in the section of wall in the middle of the photo. Then the door and window apertures have to be cut out. The small piece of wall on the right is an end wall. These 3 pieces will form the 2 cottages.
In the picture below is the 3 wall sections for the Post Office assembled, which will be joined to the cottages to form the terrace.
These are definitely the hardest kits I have ever made. I was contemplating not making them, but I have been unable to find rebuilt models to use in place of them. I have actually found them easier to build that I originally thought.
Both the lock keepers cottage and garage that I purchased on eBay arrived this morning.
With the previously purchased canal side stores this now completes the actual buildings at the bottom lock of the Hatton Flight of locks on the Grand Union Canal just north of Warwick and our home mooring in the Saltisford Arm.
This garage will find a home alongside one of the buildings on the layout.
My final purchase on eBay before we set sail on our Spring/Summer Cruise this year, Busby’s Hair Salon, arrived today.
I purchased it to sit beside the pub as it loosely matches it in style. As modelling the inside of a hair salon isn’t going to be easy, I was thinking of changing it’s usage. Jo has suggested putting a “To Let” sign on it, that way it came remain empty. Something to think about in the meantime.
I have already cut-in the roof of the pub to accommodate the salon’s chimney.
I have built this garage from a kit. It will go on the farm next to the farmhouse.
It is not finished, it needs the window frames and glazing to be fitted. It also needs painting. I do not have the right colours to paint it now. I will wait till we get to Gloucester where there is a Hobbycraft shop close to the docks, where I should be able to purchase the correct colours, providing they have them in stock! I have not fitted the window frames as I want to paint the walls and the window frames before fitting them to get a better result.
Another combined eBay purchase arrived this morning. A canal bridge and a narrowboat.
The Hornby canal bridge is a good base to start from. The towpath will need some work on it.
The ends would normally have a pair of ramps to complete, but I will build my own to complete it.
The Hornby narrowboat is not the most accurate. The extended cabin forward of the engine room doors is representative of the FMC (Fellows Morton & Clayton Ltd.) steamers which were built between 1894 and 1911. Yet the bow is very much like an Admiral class built for British Waterways very much later between 1959-60. It will need a lot of work on it once I decide what to do with it.
The narrowboat entering the bridge hole. For those who do not canal terminology boatmen always spoke about a bridge hole, not the bridge, as it was the hole underneath that they were interested in, and not the bridge itself, the term is still very much still used today. The term hole was used extensively on narrowboats, the engine hole referred to the engine room, and the boatman’s hole referred to the boatman’s cabin at the rear of the boat.
The newly acquired narrowboat alongside the model of my narrowboat Hadar that my wife and I live on, and in whose hold Hadarford will be built.
Today I finished building a kit of a barn for the farm on Hadarford. The roof was the final item to be glued in place, and the roof, walls and doors were weathered.
Probably not needed, but I do like to put additional bracing inside kits I build just to reduce any bowing of walls and to keep the corners at right-angles. My experience of constructing buildings is that the thin walls tend to bow very easily, especially the bigger the building. It is always handy when kit manufacturers supply the kits with the parts still attached to their moulding spurs, which is what I used for the bracing for this model. I also added corner braces mad from other scrap plastic parts. I used the new tools I recently bought to hold pieces of wall together at right-angles to form corners.
They certainly work well and definitely makes construction a lot easier.